MIAM July/August 2012 : Page 138

fork road the in Wherever your travels take you, culinary creativity is at an all-time high from coast to coast. Here, the restaurants you shouldn’t miss. By the editors of modern luxury, plus lesley Balla, wendell Brock, reBecca kleinman, david j. morris, roBert peyton, josh sens and adeena sussman NAPA kitchen door Attached to the Oxbow Market, chef Todd Humphries’ latest establishment is like a restaurant mashup of Let’s Go guidebooks, with nods to Italy, Indochina, Middle America and the Middle East. While Humphries’ previous experience was in fine dining, Kitchen Door keeps it casual. Start with pho—its flavors bright and light—then leave Asia behind for lahmajune , an Armenian flatbread of sorts topped with fresh ground lamb and a harissa yogurt dressing. Follow that with a chicken dinner, the roasted bird tender and bronzed, the centerpiece on a canvas of peas and carrots with roast potatoes. Save room for a coffee at Ritual Roasters on the way out. 610 1st St., 707.226.1560 PALM BEACH Manhattan’s il Buco Alimentari e Vineria MANHATTAN An heirloom tomato and arugula salad at Kitchen Door il Buco alimentari e vineria Fish Market to a fermented tofu tasting (he says it reminded him of blue cheese). Conley has put all that research to good use via this small-plate concept with dishes that include gyoza, filled with shrimp mousse and Alaskan king crab, that’s both seared and steamed. Conley also curated the restaurant’s beer and spirits selection with most careful precision. His drink of choice? Shochu. “Our version comes with muddled cantaloupe over a ball of ice.” Kanpai , indeed. 350 S. County Road, 561.833.5522 In a town that’s rife with forager’s fever, the city’s best new restaurant will still be easy to find long after the last ramps are gone. Much of the food at Il Buco Alimentari e Vineria is seasonal, but this rightful offshoot of Il Buco is Italian through and through. The alimentari opened sotto voce last year but each month its buzz accelerates. Glass cases offer an array of salumi, formaggi and panini. Upstairs, communal tables invite feasting on some of the best pastas in town. You could skip dessert, but why? It’s an excuse to linger in Italy just a little bit longer. 53 Great Jones St., 212.837.2622 imoto At Imoto , a sushi sidekick to his ultra-popular Buccan, chef Clay Conley finally gets to show off the serious nigiri skills he learned while on sabbatical in Japan. The James Beard semifinalist literally The Cantaloupe made with shochu at imoto ate his way through the country and experienced everything from epic sashimi sessions at the Daiwa sushi counter in Tokyo’s Tsukiji 138 | | July/August 2012 kitchen door photo by dl cunninghAm photogrAphy; il buco AlimentAri e vineriA photo by noe dewitt; imoto photo by Andy ryAn; nAmu gAJi photo by mohAmmAd gorJestAni

Fork In The Road

The Editors Of Modern Luxury, Plus Lesley Balla, Wendell Brock, Rebecca Kleinman, David J. Morris, Robert Peyton, Josh Sens And Adeena Sussman

Wherever your travels take you, culinary creativity is at an all-time high from coast to coast. Here, the restaurants you shouldn’t miss. NAPA kitchen door Attached to the Oxbow Market, chef Todd Humphries’ latest establishment is like a restaurant mashup of Let’s Go guidebooks, with nods to Italy, Indochina, Middle America and the Middle East. While Humphries’ previous experience was in fine dining, Kitchen Door keeps it casual. Start with pho—its flavors bright and light—then leave Asia behind for lahmajune, an Armenian flatbread of sorts topped with fresh ground lamb and a harissa yogurt dressing. Follow that with a chicken dinner, the roasted bird tender and bronzed, the centerpiece on a canvas of peas and carrots with roast potatoes. Save room for a coffee at Ritual Roasters on the way out. 610 1st St., 707.226.1560 PALM BEACH Imoto At Imoto, a sushi sidekick to his ultra-popular Buccan, chef Clay Conley finally gets to show off the serious nigiri skills he learned while on sabbatical in Japan. The James Beard semifinalist literally ate his way through the country and experienced everything from epic sashimi sessions at the Daiwa sushi counter in Tokyo’s Tsukiji Fish Market to a fermented tofu tasting (he says it reminded him of blue cheese). Conley has put all that research to good use via this small-plate concept with dishes that include gyoza, filled with shrimp mousse and Alaskan king crab, that’s both seared and steamed. Conley also curated the restaurant’s beer and spirits selection with most careful precision. His drink of choice? Shochu. “Our version comes with muddled cantaloupe over a ball of ice.” Kanpai, indeed. 350 S. County Road, 561.833.5522 MANHATTAN Il Buco alimentari e vineria In a town that’s rife with forager’s fever, the city’s best new restaurant will still be easy to find long after the last ramps are gone. Much of the food at Il Buco Alimentari e Vineria is seasonal, but this rightful offshoot of Il Buco is Italian through and through. The alimentari opened sotto voce last year but each month its buzz accelerates. Glass cases offer an array of salumi, formaggi and panini. Upstairs, communal tables invite feasting on some of the best pastas in town. You could skip dessert, but why? It’s an excuse to linger in Italy just a little bit longer. 53 Great Jones St., 212.837.2622 SAN FRANCISCO namu Gaji Namu Gaji means “tree branch” in Korean, a fitting name for an offshoot of Namu (tree), the now-defunct outpost that the Lee brothers (Dennis, David and Daniel) closed at the end of 2011 to focus on a move to the Mission District. Diners sit on backless wooden stools and counter seating that looks out through a wall of windows. Like his background (Korean blood; American upbringing), chef Dennis Lee’s food is bred of a mixed heritage, easily going back and forth from bibim kook soo—refreshing soba noodle salad in kimchee vinaigrette—to brave New Worlders such as a burly burger on pan de mie, with pickled daikon and kimchee relish. There are also delicate fried potato puffs, cloaked in panko and Parmesan. Gamja fries—a mountain of house-cut french fries buried in chopped short ribs, Korean chili paste, kimchee relish, teriyaki sauce and kewpie (Japanese mayo)—make for a satisfying happy hour. 499 Dolores St., 415.431.6268 CHICAgO yusho It doesn’t happen often that we not only want to order everything on a restaurant’s menu but also can actually afford to. Better yet: When the food arrives—in this case shareable small plates of Asian-inspired street food, including fresh-off-the-grill skewers—it’s all delicious. It’s not what you’d expect from a 14-year vet of white tablecloth restaurant Charlie Trotter’s, but that’s part of the charm of this Avondale spot. Chef/owner Matthias Merges doesn’t completely leave behind his fine-dining skills, though; rather you’ll find plenty of exotic ingredients and unique pairings, such as grilled eel with brandade, hominy and wasabi mustard. Add in a quirky interior design (warning: You might need a step-stool and seatbelt for the towering bar stools, but the front row seat they provide to all the cooking action is so worth it) and some terrific cocktails and it’s no wonder Yusho is the restaurant we can’t get enough of. 2853 N. Kedzie Ave., 773.904.8558 WASHINgTON, D.C. Bandolero Tough-talking Top Chef contestant Mike Isabella has done it again. Straight off the shining success of his artisanal pizzeria, Graffiato, which opened last year, the José Andrés protégé and D.C. culinary darling is once more showing off his international cuisine chops. Isabella’s latest venture, Bandolero, hit the District earlier this summer—just in time to take advantage of the ice-cold, bloodorange house margaritas on tap. His Day of the Dead-themed Georgetown hot spot comes complete with cemetery gates, tombstone-esque arches behind the bar and animal skull-decked black walls. But don’t let the dark décor scare you off—at least not before you’ve tried the octopus, charred asparagus and suckling pig tacos. Beyond the soft-shells, top picks include decadently deluxe entrées, such as Isabella’s version of queso fundido, with duck confit, melted manchego, maitake mushrooms and a sunny-side up egg. And because, let’s face it, you aren’t coming here to count calories, ending your pseudo south of the border night with a slice of the tequilasoaked margarita cake is a must. 3241 M St. N.W., 202.625.4488 DALLAS OAk The location has all the élan of an interstate road sign, but patrons don’t seem to care. Step into a stylish dining room that pays homage to the restaurant’s namesake. Under the direction of Executive Chef Jason Maddy, a visit to Oak is an adventure in globesurfing. On one night, choices may include Moroccan octopus and pork jowls, and already-legendary side dishes of spaetzle and Brussels sprouts. Fair warning: Don’t fall in love with one dish, as the menu changes seasonally and frequently. Do make reservations (a must) and see for yourself how a lowkey neighborhood in proximity to Dallas’ stunning new Santiago Calatrava-designed bridge has become the city’s hottest dining destination. 1628 Oak Lawn Ave., Ste. 110, 214.712.9700 NASHVILLE The catBird seat Arrive at a nondescript door on an unassuming street and follow a hostess up a private elevator and into a white-walled room. Surprisingly, Oreos greet you at your place setting. But nothing is what it seems at Nashville’s hottest new restaurant. The “cookie” is made of savory porcini mushroom and the “filling” is an ivory Parmesan cream. You weren’t expecting artful, high-end cuisine in a laid-back country town? Then you must have missed the piles of accolades heaped on The Catbird Seat’s coexecutive chefs Erik Anderson and Josh Habiger. Not only the genius chefs behind the counter, they’re also your servers who present and explain each dish on the ninecourse menu. It’s like talking to an artist after he’s just put the final stroke on a masterpiece. And yes, eating here is nothing short of an artistic endeavor. 1711 Division St. LOS AngELES Tar & roses Santa Monica native Andrew Kirschner grew up going to the famed farmers market every week, so it’s no wonder he opened his first restaurant just a stone fruit’s throw away. After working kitchens at Joe’s Restaurant, Table 8 and, most recently, Wilshire restaurant, the chef has come into his own at the spot he named for the flavor references to his favorite Italian wine grape (nebbiolo). What does Tar & Roses have going for it? Everything. The space is casual and comfortable, filled with beach-chic locals sharing chicken oysters on a stick and beet salads. The wine list is superb and accessible, the servers affable and knowledgeable. The wood-burning oven is the kitchen’s favorite tool, used to turn out everything but pizza— fresh English peas, gem lettuce and heirloom carrots are charred in it; the best roast chicken in town gets its golden glow from it; and it puts a perfect sear on a rib-eye steak. 602 Santa Monica Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.587.0700 LAS VegAS Mizumi Never one to rest on his laurels, Steve Wynn has completely redone Mizumi, the city’s premier Japanese restaurant. A no-expense-spared redesign has resulted in a sleek, modern room warmed by crimson and gold leaf, and filled with Noh theater masks and embroidered obi sashes. It doesn’t hurt that the space boasts one of the best vistas of Tryst Nightclub’s 90-foot waterfall. Under the stewardship of Devin Hashimoto, however, the food is even more on point. Yes, there are impeccably executed teppanyaki (cooked on a griddle) and robatayaki (skewers) fare, but where Hashimoto shines is with his plated offerings. Frequent travels throughout Japan have instilled a respect for the traditional kaiseki multicourse approach, and his six-year tenure as two- Michelin-starred Alex Stratta’s chef de cuisine has elevated his approach. Think amped-up seafood okonomiyaki (Japanese pancake) and razor-thin hamachi topped with jalapeño gelée. 3131 Las Vegas Blvd. S., 702.770.3463 NEW ORLEANS BorGne Don’t let its location in the Hyatt Hotel near the Superdome fool you. Borgne isn’t just a tourist-only destination (although with a crowd-pleasing menu, we can see why it’s popular with the convention crowds, too). Named for a body of water to the east of New Orleans, Borgne is chef John Besh’s ninth restaurant and one of the best to open in The Big Easy in the last year. Executive Chef Brian Landry wants the casual restaurant— think colorful floor-to-ceiling chalkboards and columns encrusted with oyster shells—to be the place for great local, sustainable seafood, and he’s well on his way to doing just that. Take for example the fish en papillote, in this case local sheepshead. When the paper bag it’s cooked in is opened tableside, the aroma of crab fat and caramelized vegetables is exhilarating. 601 Loyola Ave., 504.613.3860 HAWAII prima Credit the young chefs at Prima—Alejandro Briceño, Kevin Lee and Lindsey Ozawa—for energizing Oahu’s dining scene with a wellcrafted array of pastas, pizza and small plates. The Kailua eatery may have a relaxed, no-fuss appearance, but the menu projects a sophistication that has discriminating eaters trekking to the Windward side for such dishes as veal sweetbreads, fennel panna cotta, buffalo clams with duck confit and homemade gelato. The chefs—all under 35—adhere to a simple, yet refined, concept of creating easy-to-share dishes that are crafted from seasonal, local ingredients. 108 Hekili St., Kailua, 808.888.8933 SAN DIEgO kitchen 1540 Too often, San Diego hotel restaurants find themselves mired in the culinary limbo that results from trying to satisfy both regulars and visitors. Kitchen 1540’s new Executive Chef Scott Thomas Dolbee is trying to change that, making the iconic and beautifully restored L’Auberge Del Mar more worthy of a visit than ever. Dolbee, who earned his culinary chops at The Blvd in Beverly Hills and L. A.’s swanky Jonathan Club, commands the avant-garde. “Potato jelly,” offered alongside the formidable steakhouse fare (a beef-fest of prime rib-eye, braised short rib and bone marrow gratin), is a clever two-bite composition of potato gelée, chive purée, crème fraîche, fromage blanc and bacon powder. It wouldn’t be out of place at El Bulli. And don’t miss Executive Pastry Chef Jeff Bonilla’s apple funnel cake, with brown-butter apples, candied walnuts and blue cheese ice cream. Savory and sweet have never been this good. 1540 Camino del Mar, 858.793.6460 HOuSTON underBelly In Houston’s hip Montrose neighborhood, Underbelly has been buzzing since its March debut. Familial-feeling and fun, the restaurant is a love letter to local farmers and an homage to the city’s ethnic culinary landscape—Vietnamese, Chinese, Korean, Mexican and more—from beloved chef-owner Chris Shepherd. It’s also Houston’s only whole-animals-only restaurant, with a full-time butcher and charcuterie-curing room visible from the reclaimed-wood-wrapped dining area. Shepherd’s ever-changing menu, built for sharing with no division between appetizers and entrées, might include Korean-style braised goat with cushiony dumplings or bycatch Gulf fish that arrives in a manhole-sized cast iron skillet atop local vegetables. No reservation? Spots at the communal tables next to the open kitchen—where Shepherd and his staff sometimes gather to chug a celebratory beer—are first come, first served. 1100 Westheimer Road, 713.528.9800 ATLANTA The optimist The oyster cases are stocked with pristine little beauties from Martha’s Vineyard and the Pacific Northwest. The deep fryers hiss with oysters, clams, and fish and chips. The bartender is shake-shake-shaking up perky nautical-themed libations: Cutty Sharks, Old Salty Dogs, Beach Shanties. Yes, everything’s going just swimmingly at The Optimist. The latest West Atlanta excursion from chef Ford Fry (JCT. Kitchen & Bar, No. 246) is a big old fish camp that harks back to his boyhood days on the Gulf Coast. The retro spot is a shining beacon for chef Adam Evans’ full-steam-ahead fusion cooking. In the more formal, ocean-linersize main room, fried oysters ride Angels on Horseback-style on pork belly; swordfish is poached in duck fat; and Maine sea scallops come with oxtail marmalade. But if you have an appetite for something a little less lusty, dock your Sperrys next door at The Oyster Bar and nosh on peel-andeat shrimp, or maybe a lobster roll—and swig it all down with a glass of Heavy Seas Small Craft Warning (Über Pils). Grab a deck chair while you can. This place is making a big splash in ATL. 914 Howell Mill Road, 404.477.6260 CHARLESTON The Macintosh When it comes to serving swank Southern fare, Charleston’s upper King Street is stealing the culinary stage. And this convivial bistro, featuring a menu chockablock with local farm names and fresh-fromthe- nearby-sea fish, is no exception. Inside the brick-walled restaurant, those in search of Southern soul with a sophisticated slant will find plenty to choose from on this menu, which changes daily. Chef Jeremiah Bacon, a Charleston native with stints at Le Bernardin and Per Se, serves up exquisitely plated creations, like a buttery sautéed triggerfish or a panzanella octopus salad. Even the traditional vegetable plate gets an urbane upgrade, sporting combinations like bright roasted beets, sunchokes and romanesco broccoli. Can’t stop in for supper? Come for cocktails. The Macintosh’s signature Bacon Happy Hour features drink specials alongside a small pork dish, such as a baguette topped with lemon-chai butter and savory chorizo. Pair with a hip sip, like the gin and elderflower Gen-X, for a taste of the new South. 479B King St., 843.789.4299 ORANgE CouNTY The Ranch Restaurant & Saloon Who would have thought that a place where you can dance the twostep in one room and dine on confit of duck leg in another would be a hit in the posh, beach-oriented landscape of Orange County? Andrew Edwards, that’s who. Few would argue that he knows a thing or two about success. After all, he founded Extron Electronics, a company that has grown to become a leading worldwide provider of AV products. But a Western-themed restaurant in a surf-inspired town? Edwards’ hunch that O.C.’s luxe crowd hungered for a place where they could savor salmon with black quinoa, then kick their cowboy heels up in the adjacent saloon hit the bull’s-eye. Of course, with folks like master sommelier Michael Jordan and chef Michael Rossi at The Ranch Restaurant & Saloon, Edwards all but guaranteed his success. 1025 E. Ball Road, Anaheim, 714.817.4200

Previous Page Next Page

Publication List
Using a screen reader? Click Here