CHSO April 2013 : Page 94
MEN of Style By Katie Schroeder Photography by Jeremy Bustos of Studio isIs Shot on location at Coyle & Herr and Bridgeport Art Center Styling by Mel Muoio Grooming by Carol Wood with Ford Artists for NARS After more than a decade of producing our annual “Men of Style” feature, we’ve still only skimmed the surface of the numerous fascinating and stylish men who call Chicago home. This year we gathered eight more at the Bridgeport Art Center, where we shot inside its skyline loft, as well as at Coyle & Herr, the 12,000-square-foot home furnishings consignment showroom located on the building’s ﬁ rst ﬂ oor. Full of unique ﬁ nds for sale, Coyle & Herr presented us with a challenge— to sort through its extensive inventory and ﬁ nd what would best showcase this year’s Men of Style. Challenge accepted. On Hendel Glasses by Moscot. Shirt and tie by Saks Fifth Avenue Men’s Collection. Suit by Armani. Pocket square by Charvet. Shoes by Fratelli Rossetti. Socks by Paul Smith. Watch by Patek Philippe. Hair by Deron Edward of Michael Anthony Salon and Spa.
Men Of Style
After more than a decade of producing our annual "Men of Style" feature, we've still only skimmed the surface of the numerous fascinating and stylish men who call Chicago home. This year we gathered eight more at the Bridgeport Art Center, where we shot inside its skyline loft, as well as at Coyle & Herr, the 12,000-square-foot home furnishings consignment showroom located on the building's first floor. Full of unique finds for sale, Coyle & Herr presented us with a challengeto sort through its extensive inventory and find what would best showcase this year's Men of Style. Challenge accepted.<br /> <br /> Chris Hendel <br /> <br /> "Style to me is far more than how you dress," says Hendel. "It's in the details and nuances-how you carry yourself, how you open doors for ladies, what charities you support, what wines you drink." For Hendel, that means season tickets to the Joffrey Ballet and Chicago Symphony Orchestra, wines like a 2006 Vietti Barbaresco Masseria and a wardrobe of custom and made-tomeasure clothing, which is accessible given his position as the assistant general manager of merchandising for Saks Fifth Avenue. "Every season we get new fabric swatches from all of our designers and I sift through and decide what to have made," he says. "It's great if you have a creative eye and really want something unique-special linings, buttons, a cigar pocket. And besides, what fits better than a suit made for you?" Favorite designers include Isaia, Corneliani, Kiton, the private brand at Saks ("You can't beat our cashmere sweaters," says Hendel), and Paul Smith for a "modern classic" style. "My father was a true Renaissance man; he had great personal style," says Hendel. "I have a vintage YSL suit of his and a few great watches [like the Patek Phillipe seen here as well as Hendel's everyday timepiece, an A. Lange & Sohne]. He always said a man apart from the crowd attracts a crowd."<br /> <br /> Rino Burdi <br /> <br /> Although Burdi thinks he should be allowed to shop outside of his namesake store on Walton Street, he rarely does... unless he's in Italy. "I go crazy," he says of traveling to Florence twice a year on buying trips for Burdi, which was founded by his father more than 40 years ago. He defines his personal style as classic with an edge. "I might pair a blue blazer with a plaid pant-classic, but with a contemporary edge to it. And nothing says 'classic' in a sartorial sense as much as a handmade garment, even if it has a more fitted, modern look to it." He always wears a cross and a watch, usually an Audemars Piguet. And over the years, his style has evolved from wearing suits every day to now feeling more comfortable in a button-down and sportcoat, which is an item he says every man needs. "You can dress them up, dress them down and go anywhere with them," says Burdi, who prefers a more lightweight cashmere sport jacket. "They're unconstructed, so they've got more of a natural drape-I feel really comfortable and put together in them." So when you own a custom clothing store, who are your style icons? "First and foremost, I'd have to say my dad, because he really helped set me on my course in life," he says. "Apart from his great influence, I look to the fashion icons of yesteryear like Cary Grant and Frank Sinatra. They took great pride in their style and had a clean, tailored look to their appearance. It seems like things are starting to swing back that way."<br /> <br /> Richard Wright <br /> <br /> As someone who wanted to be a writer, stumbled into antiques out of college and started as a vintage dealer in 1986, Wright now owns one of the premier auction houses specializing in 20th century design and fine art. Unsurprisingly, his look is characterized by a contemporary aesthetic: "My style is a reflection of the relaxed art world style," says Wright. He shops Prada, Barneys New York and Lanvin, but it wasn't always that way. "When I first got into the business, I was a picker and I traveled around the country. For five years, I would only wear black jeans and white Fruit of the Loom T-shirts—I would go buy them at Woolworth's," he says. "It's fun to change as you age and mature. Fashion is an indulgence, and my appreciation of the art of it has totally changed." Plus, he now prefers the opinion of his fiancee, gallery owner Valerie Carberry, whom he'll wed this spring in Italy, to that of a stylist. "I think as you start to understand how clothes work on the body, it's also really fun to pick out pieces for the other to try on and get out of their [comfort zone]." One place he doesn't shop, though, is his eponymous auction house, despite the exciting items that come across his desk, such as a house in L.A. he sold for $3.2 million or a coffee table for $630,000. "The process of winning that consignment, promoting it in a way that's creative, selling it for a great price—that's the perfect arc for me, not keeping it. I live with all vintage things, but I'm not a collector. The larger pursuit of it is more interesting."<br /> <br /> Jamal Mayers <br /> <br /> When the right wing for the Chicago Blackhawks arrived on set he only had one rule: "Don't hide all the scars. I earned them." No one could argue with that, since the day before our photo shoot the Blackhawks earned a point in their 19th straight game—a streak that ended at 24 games on March 8, setting an NHL record for consecutive games with a point to start a season, and finishing as the third-longest overall streak of its kind in league history. But Mayers didn't seem fazed by the hype or pressure. "Nobody remembers who won the first 24," he says. "Just who won the Stanley Cup." One thing people do take note of, though, is that this Lincoln Park resident is consistently well-dressed. "When I was younger, I caught a little bit more [flak for it]. But now, I'm the old guy," he says, laughing. He shops John Varvatos, Ted Baker and Bonobos. Finding pieces to fit his not quite off-the-rack measurements can be difficult, but it's a problem for which he found a permanent fix when he and a friend from childhood decided to start their own custom clothing company, Champagne & Caviar, which now counts about 30 NHL players as clients—among them Blackhawks teammates Jonathan Toews, Patrick Sharp and Brent Seabrook. For this shoot, he decided to forgo a suit for a custom sportcoat and pants, both in his brand's fine Italian fabrics. "I don't see many young guys wearing sportcoats and stepping out of the suit look," he says. "I think we've lost that sophistication a little."<br /> <br /> Leonard Goldberg <br /> <br /> "Style is not about designers. It's about comfortable, functional clothes I can spend all day in at work or for several hours in at an event and still feel like myself," says the Geneva Seal jeweler. "If it feels like, 'I can't wait to take this off,' then it's not my type of outfit." Goldberg, who's behind the Oak Street store known for Europeanstyle jewelry, custom engagement rings and a selection of watches that includes Bovet, Franck Muller and Blancpain, is originally from Moscow, and saw his father as an icon while growing up. "He was always a sharp dresser. What made him sharp is that he took care of himself—he was wellgroomed, used the right amount of cologne, wore crisp, ironed shirts, and most importantly he always had his shoes clean and shined. He taught me that taking pride in my appearance shows respect for the people I come in contact with, and I still polish my own shoes." Given his profession, it's no surprise that Goldberg is a fan of unique accessories like antique cuff links, David Oscarson pens and Gold & Wood sunglasses. "I truly believe my outfit is made by accessories," he says. "When it comes to clothing, we are all influenced by fashion ads and trends to a certain degree, but no matter what brand or designers one prefers, small details make up one's personal style. You can put together a killer look from Target or H&M if you have a sense of your own identity and style."<br /> <br /> Matt Roan <br /> <br /> This Chicago-based DJ and co-founder of DJ agency Crossfader King is one you probably already know. He's been booked everywhere from Miami to Milan, performed at Lollapalooza twice, and is a resident DJ at Studio Paris, the chairman of the Chicago Children's Choir Ambassadors Board, and a regular on the local party circuit: From launch parties for Absolut to the grand opening of Michigan Avenue's Burberry store last fall, he's in high demand. "I grew up playing in rock bands," says Roan, who's been a professional DJ for seven years. "I wasn't in a band at the time and had a roommate with turntables. It was perfect because I was always the guy at parties with the iPod anyways. I realized I could still play music, be onstage and give people that energy... but as a one-man show." By the time Roan got into the biz, he decided to skip a stage name ("As an adult, it felt like a tall order to come up with some crazy moniker," he says) and immediately became known for his music as much as his personal style, which he describes as "not cable-knit preppy, but hip and well-fitting." He shops Penelope's and Una Mae's in Chicago, Odin New York and Unionmade in San Francisco. Favorite designers? "There is probably more Fred Perry in my closet than any other brand," says Roan. "I realize he is long dead but as a fellow tennis player, I'm very much in line with the aesthetic; Thom Browne-while I'm not interested in wearing suits that look too damn small, I love the vibe; and Tom Ford, because he makes dudes look like men." Needless to say, his look has evolved over the years. "When I first started Djing I was really into streetwear: all-over prints, flat-brimmed hats, huge high-tops. I had a weird hip-hop vibe that wasn't really true to who I normally was. Now even the streetwear companies have classed it up a bit. Seems like everyone is growing up."<br /> <br /> Julies Few<br /> <br /> As a board-certified plastic surgeon and founder of The Few Institute for Aesthetic Plastic Surgery, this Streeterville resident lives his life well put together. "If someone is putting their life in your hands, so to speak, I don't think you want to come across as sloppy," says Few, who has a reputation for sharp attention to detail both professionally and when it comes to style. His custom Astor & Black suit was accented with purple stitching to complement his tie and pocket square in the same color palette. Hermes, Barneys New York and Saks Fifth Avenue are go-tos, and he sticks to nothing more than a watch when it comes to jewelry. "It's probably one of the only accessories you can get away with as a guy without looking like you're overdoing it, so it fits my theme." In fact, while he was on the long road to finishing his surgical training, a designer watch was the item he dreamed of purchasing. "I said, 'When I get done, I want a Rolex.' It was the watch that had an incredible reputation for quality." He's since traded that Rolex for another model, and collected a Jaeger-LeCoultre and Patek Philippe, among others. This month, Few extends his practice with an office in Manhattan, and plans to split his time to stay rooted in Chicago, where, among other things, he serves on the board of Youth Guidance. "The saying is 'at-risk' but to me, that means kids who really don't have anyone watching their backs," he says. "There was a point for me in my life when I felt that a little bit, so I know what it feels like."<br /> <br /> Mike Cao <br /> <br /> With three master's degrees in computer science, business administration and information science from the University of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign, Cao seems an unlikely candidate to be the creative brains behind two well-known furniture showrooms in Chicago, Casa Spazio and Jesse Chicago by Home Element. But after working as a software consultant for nine years, the Shanghai native quit his job in 2003 to move full time into the furniture biz, starting with a small 500-square-foot store that sold home accessories, furniture and antiques. He opened Jesse Chicago by Home Element in 2010, which is now the Chicago-area flagship store for Jesse Italy contemporary furniture, and Casa Spazio in 2011. "The reason we opened Casa Spazio is because Jesse is only one line, one living style. At Casa Spazio, we have about 10 Italian lines combined, so it's sort of like creating your own style," says Cao. "It's a very enjoyable process, and I like providing a solution to customers. I think that is the key: We're not just selling merchandise." In the fall, Cao plans to expand Casa Spazio by carrying an Italian kitchen line in the newly built-out space downstairs, which offers an additional 2,000 square feet to the showroom. When it comes to dressing for work, he mixes pieces from Brooks Brothers with Banana Republic. "The furniture we sell is modern contemporary Italian furniture, so it can be serious, but it can be dressed down as well," says Cao. "I used to wear suits all the time in the beginning, but I found that wearing jeans combined with a jacket brings a very different atmosphere and energy to the customer. They don't feel that you're too serious."<br /> <br /> On Hendel Glasses by Moscot. Shirt and tie by Saks Fifth Avenue Men's Collection. Suit by Armani. Pocket square by Charvet. Shoes by Fratelli Rossetti. Socks by Paul Smith. Watch by Patek Philippe. Hair by Deron Edward of Michael Anthony Salon and Spa.<br /> <br /> On Burdi Head-to-toe Burdi, with the exception of an Audemars Piguet watch and his own bracelet.<br /> <br /> On Wright Glasses by Ogi Eyewear. Suit by Paul Smith. Shirt belt and shoes by Prada. Tie by Lanvin.<br /> <br /> On Mayers Pants, jacket and shirt by Champagne & Caviar. Tie and pocket square by Brioni. Shoes by Gucci. Watch by Cartier.<br /> <br /> On Goldberg Tux by Giorgio Napoli. Shirt by Takumi. Bow tie and pocket square by Burdi. 1856 antique London pocket watch. Gold cuff links made from A. D. 161 Roman coins. Four-carat round brilliant Geneva Seal ring and diamond Geneva Seal pin.<br /> <br /> On Roan Tux by Sebastien Grey. Bow tie by Club Monaco. Belt by Polo Ralph Lauren. Shirt by Helmut Lang. Shoes by Aldo. Socks by Topman. Pocket square by Ralph Lauren. Glasses by Aframes Eyewear.<br /> <br /> On Few Suit, shirt, tie and pocket square by Astor & Black. Belt by Hermès. Shoes by Gucci. Watch by Jaeger-LeCoultre. Styled by Brandon Bowers, Astor & Black.<br /> <br /> On Cao Jacket and jeans by Banana Republic. Shirt, tie and pocket square by Brooks Brothers. Shoes by Magnanni.<br />