MANH January 2010 : Page 63

F Food What’s iN store this roe floats our boat. Payard’s smart cookies. Pretzels worth their salt. Batali’s casa is su casa at casa mono. Shelter From the Storm our picks for a snowy evening out on the town Joseph Leonard Gabriel Stulman’s closet-sized newbie is as snugly welcoming as his alma maters Little Owl andMarket Table, and James McDuffee’s shrimp and grits and pork hock showcase a style solidified at Bouchon Bakery. 170 Waverly Pl., 646.429.8383 Casa Mono When we think Batali we think Italian, but the zesty little plates of tapas and glasses of Rioja cramming the tables at this Spanish joint off Gramercy Park give those pasta palaces a serious run for their money. 52 Irving Pl., 212.253.2773 Falai Who could resist a place that sticks its diners in the window as though part of the display and sends out dishes like polenta with chicken liver and chanterelles? Also: Iacopo Falai whips up the best passionfruit soufflé on the planet. 68 Clinton St., 212.253.1960 Sfoglia It started with the 92nd Street Y crowd, but it wasn’t long before this husband-and-wife-run winner was drawing ’em from deepest downtown.We’ll still board the lousy 6 train just for a plate of the pappardelle. 1402 Lexington Ave., 212.831.1402 Calvisius Caviar Lounge Attention, shoppers: Te midafternoon antidote to your Madison Avenue meanderings is now located just off Park Avenue. Tucked inside the Four Seasons Hotel, this Deco dazzler serves up glasses of Dom Perignon and plates of delicate Italian caviar. Grab a tin of something sexy and salty to share with someone you adore. 58 East 58th St., 212.207.8222 François Chocolate Bar Make a beeline past the billionaires’ baubles inMauboussin’s jewel box of a boutique and board the padded- leather elevator in back for a lift up to the fourth-floor tea room, where François Payard’s Champagne truffles and macarons—in combos likemilk chocolate and yuzu—can be savored amid chic surroundings or packed up in beribboned boxes to go. 714 Madison Ave., 212.759.1600 Sigmund Pretzel Shop Daniel Boulud gets a few points for DBGB, but the downtown-cred award surely goes to Lina Kulchinsky, who ditched the gleaming pastry kitchens of Jean-Georges and Bouley to open this window-fronted spot off Tompkins Square Park, where she blasts BobMarley and sends out warm pretzels in flavors like cinnamon raisin and sesame. 29 Ave. B, 646.410.0333 Bad to the Bone Its pork belly and partridge are sourced from a handful of family farms in the Tri- State area, and now that owner Jake Dickson and his appropriately hunky butcher, Adam Tiberio, finAl cut Dickson’s farmstand owner Jake Dickson beefs up the local offerings in the chelsea market. have moved Dickson’s Farmstand into the ChelseaMarket, we’ve given up any pretensions to our would-be vegetarianism. 75 Ninth Ave., 609.647.4842 “At the Jane hotel, below the 50-square-foot, train berth–sized rooms, is a light- filled, minty pastel, breezy palm, Art deco–tiled beauty called café gitane, where you can take refuge with a cucumber juice and the most soothing avocado toast. lemony, olive-oily, chili-flaked north African simplicity.” –feist,musiciaN Jan/Feb 2010 | | 63 cAsA Mono, sigMund pretZel shop And dickson’s FArMstAnd photos By evAn sung; FrAncois chocolAte BAr photo By kAte glicksBerg; cAlvisius cAviAr lounge photo courtesy oF cAlvisius

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