FDCH January 2011 : Page 27

p h oto s c o u r t es y of e v e r es t. LEFT Brothers Jerrod and RJ Melman. ABOVE, FROM LEFT The apple beignet at Everest; Everest’s old-world dining room. New spot Paris Club will be a total 180. frat boy dishes (think BLTs with brown sugar bacon, or pulled chicken nachos) meets a tequila cocktail on tap; and Santa Monica’s LGO, a similar concept. Joho loves a new challenge. (Change, he says, is life.) It seems like paris club ( 59 W. Hubbard St., no phone at press time ), the casual French restaurant that the trio opens early this month, was a collaboration waiting to happen. So, what to expect? it will be busy. Paris Club usurps the address of Joho’s first lower-end French spot, Brasserie Jo, so you’ve got its former regulars. The Melmans are natural networkers, so you’ve got their friends and followers, plus maybe the celeb set they draw to Hub (the Glee cast, for example, recently ate there). Add the crowd that reads food blogs all day and can’t wait for this opening, and we’re talking a full house. it won’t be scary. Don’t “get” French food? Try this. The menu is it will complement, not compete with, everest. If you’re looking a special occasion spot, Everest’s mirrored dining room is one of few places left where people actually dress for dinner. (At Paris Club, we’ll be wearing jeans.) Joho returns the favor by dressing up fare like the pressé of foie gras with paper-thin slices of watermelon and cantaloupe. An 8-course tasting menu with wine pairings costs around $250. 27 Fr o n t D es k / J an u ar y 2 0 11 meant to introduce French to a new generation. For example, there’s mac and cheese, dressed up with Madrange ham, butter and Mornay, a creamy cheese sauce. In a modern, lighter version of vegetable cassoulet, beans form the base, and the plate’s piled with seasonal sautéed veggies.

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