SANF January, 2012 : Page 46

Drink this 46 san francisco January 2012 Call me old-fashioned A classic cocktail goes modern at the new Plum Bar. Ordering a Manhattan earns one instant cocktail cred. There’s something so very Mad Men about that blend of bourbon and sweet vermouth with a maraschino cherry floating in the glass. But ask for an old-fashioned and prepare to be branded as hopelessly out-of-date. Except at Plum Bar, where your grand mother’s favorite drink gets its props. Instead of the sugar cube called for in the classic recipe, caramel syrup sweetens a dose of High West Double Rye, and orange bitters add a citrus note. Lavender essential oil is sprayed into the glass before the drink is poured. This brûléed old-fashioned, as it’s called, is served over a single, crystal clear ice cube and garnished with candied fennel and a frilly fennel frond. As balanced and nuanced as a great wine, with just enough sweetness to calm the rye, it’s not a drink my grand-mother would recognize, but this very contemporary old-fashioned hits all the right notes for me. 2216 BroaDway, oaklanD, 510-444-7586 By Jan newBerry photograph By Craig lee

Drink This

Jan Newberry

Call me old-fashioned <br /> <br /> A classic cocktail goes modern at the new Plum Bar. <br /> <br /> Ordering a Manhattan earns one instant cocktail cred. There’s something so very Mad Men about that blend of bourbon and sweet vermouth with a maraschino cherry floating in the glass. But ask for an old-fashioned and prepare to be branded as hopelessly out-of-date. Except at Plum Bar, where your grand mother’s favorite drink gets its props. Instead of the sugar cube called for in the classic recipe, caramel syrup sweetens a dose of High West Double Rye, and orange bitters add a citrus note. Lavender essential oil is sprayed into the glass before the drink is poured. This brûléed old-fashioned, as it’s called, is served over a single, crystal clear ice cube and garnished with candied fennel and a frilly fennel frond. As balanced and nuanced as a great wine, with just enough sweetness to calm the rye, it’s not a drink my grandmother would recognize, but this very contemporary old-fashioned hits all the right notes for me. 2216 BroaDway, oaklanD, 510-444-7586<br /> <br />

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