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food drink | Guide Hills. Whet your palate on small-plate items like turkey sausage meatballs but save plenty of room for hand-stretched pizzas, boneless beef short ribs and roasted salmon with smoked tomato butter. 3767 Santa Rosalia Drive, 323.299.5599, postandbeamla.com $$ trees in the front yard (there’s no other place to sit other than the two tables on the terrace) and take it all in. 1202 Abbot Kinney Blvd., 310.399.8801, jinpatisserie. com $ Venice. Designer and Jamaica native Sean Knibb turns on the tropical vibe with Caribbean-inspired colors and rich textures, while head chef Roy Choi fires up the best double-fried jerk chicken wings, chili-salted pineapple lollipops and rum-glazed prawns this side of Montego Bay. 822 Washington Blvd., 310.448.8884, sunnyspotvenice.com $ the big-flavored kitchen here, serving, hands down, the best lamb shank in the entire metro area. The restaurant itself has always been a bit strange (it occupies a tent and thus feels somewhat temporary) but there’s no denying the talent in the kitchen. 1009 El Centro St., 626.441.2443, eatatfirefly. com $$ easel; super-private booths hidden behind curtains; salads and house-cured gravlax prepared tableside; and enduring preference for frog’s legs Provençal, this shoebox-sized continental dining room, and it’s French menu, has long been a word-of-mouth West Valley favorite. 22757 Ventura Blvd., 818.225.9114 $$$$ Joe’s Joe Miller pioneered Abbot Kinney’s restaurant row, and his place is still the street’s biggest draw, despite having only 100 seats. New Chef de Cuisine Greg Zanotti is now the one overseeing the Cal-French-influenced, modern American menu. 1023 Abbot Kinney Blvd., 310.399.5811, joesrestaurant. com $$$ Waterloo & City Chef Brendan Collins (The Hall, Anisette, Mélisse) has opened a gastropub of sorts with partner Carolos Tomazos (Per Se, Le Bernardin). You’ll notice some of Collins’ French brasserie experience coming into play with foie gras mousse, pig trotters and sweetbreads. But now he’s making pastas and pizzas, too. 12517 W. Washington Blvd., 310.391.4222, waterlooandcity.com $$$ Palate Food + Wine Chef Octavio Becerra, one of the original big shots in the Patina Group, owns this excellent gourmet café and wine boutique in the 818, where he cures his own charcuterie and ages his own cheeses, among other neat culinary tricks. This is farm-to-table, nose-to-tail cooking at its finest. 933 S. Brand Blvd., 818.662.9463, palatefoodwine. com $$ The Tasting Kitchen Chef Casey Lane serves uncomplicated, market-driven cuisine that allows spring to taste like spring and autumn to taste like autumn. Trying to read the poorly designed menu might make a person go blind, just as the unbearable noise level will certainly promote deafness. 1633 Abbot Kinney Blvd., 310.392.6644, thetastingkitchen.com $$ Hampton’s The fine dining restaurant at the Four Seasons Hotel and Spa has elevated the idea of spa cuisine to a level of never-before-seen luxury. The Four Seasons, 2 Dole Drive, 818.575.3000, fourseasons. com/ westlakevillage $$$ Manhattan Beach Post Former Water Grill chef David LeFevre has left downtown L.A. and dropped anchor at a former post office turned beachside hang. With an eclectic menu (Vietnamese caramel pork belly, Moroccan barbecue lamb belly) and handcrafted cocktails, this breezy bastion will have you sauntering to the South Bay for bacon cheddar buttermilk biscuits rather than the waves. 1142 Manhattan Ave., 310.545.5405, eatmbpost.com $$ Katsu-ya Sushi master Katsuya uechi continues to bewilder even the staunchest sushi fans with his impeccable creations. This is one of the best sushi restaurants in the area. 11680 Ventura Blvd., 818.985.6976, katsu-yagroup. com $$$ The Royce With Michael Voltaggio’s departure, chef David Feau brings to The Langham in Pasadena a refreshingly modern take on New American cuisine. Exquisite technique and weekly visits to local farmers markets are brought to bear in delicacies like a skinless roasted guinea hen with caviar au jus—which can be savored in one of two wine rooms, on the glass-encased veranda or at the private chef’s table. The Langham, Huntington Hotel & Spa, 1401 S. Oak Knoll Ave., 626.585.6410, roycela. com $$$$ Venice/south Bay/LAx Axe After a blaze closed its doors just under a year ago, owner Joanna Moore saw to it that this earth-friendly eatery bounced back by continuing the classic brown rice bowl, seasonal vegetable soups and ample organic fare (including a large portion of the vino and brew selections) that its devotees adore. 1009 Abbot Kinney Blvd., 310.664.9787, axerestaurant.com $ The Strand House This slick, multilevel restaurant boasts the single best address in town thanks to an unobstructed view of the coast and the pier. Carlsbad mussels with morcilla sausage and pequillo peppers; braised rabbit gnocchi accompanied by green onions and pine nuts; grilled prime filet with herbed truffle butter... It’s exactly what the moneyed yet easygoing ’hood is jonesing for. 117 Manhattan Beach Blvd., 310.545.7470, thestrandhousemb.com. $$$ Mr. Cecil’s California Ribs Hollywood producer Jonathan Burrows perfected his backyard beef ribs and parlayed them into a wonderful barbecue joint. And if we want a bottle of Rothschild to go with those ribs, he is happy to sell us one. 13625 Ventura Blvd., 818.905.8400, mrcecilscaribs. com $$ mar’sel In a welcome first for this stretch of the coast, chef Michael Fiorelli (formerly of Simon LA) brings sophisticated California cuisine (think: confit of pork shoulder with fingerling potatoes or grilled wagyu rib cap with creamed chard tortelloni) to the cliffside perch of the resort. Terranea Resort, 100 Terranea Way, 310.265.2701, terranea. com $$$ Gjelina Chef Travis Lett serves uncomplicated California/ Mediterranean-style fare, including crudo and thin-crust pizzas from a wood-burning oven. Ask for a table on the patio, where you can hear yourself think. And brace yourself for lazy service—but don’t worry, the food’s worth it. 1429 Abbot Kinney Blvd., 310.450.1429, gjelina. com $$ Vertical Wine Bistro Fantastic news for this elegant wine-centric restaurant: Chef Laurent Quenioux (of Bistro LQ in L.A.) is now overseeing the kitchen and is serving French bistro-inspired cuisine with a California accent. They also offer a prix-fixe, three-course Sunday supper. 70 N. Raymond Ave., 626.795.3999, verticalwinebistro. com $$$ Pasadena/glendale Arroyo Chop House Prime steaks may be the big draw here, but the rotisserie chicken shouldn’t be overlooked. Service is always dependable, too. 536 S. Arroyo Parkway, 626.577.7463, arroyochophouse. com $$$ Raphael Since defecting from Saddle Peak Lodge and its wall-to-wall taxidermy, the Gordon Ramsay-pedigreed Adam Horton is carving out a home for himself in Raphael’s Studio City kitchen. He brings his brand of progressive American cuisine to bear on the globe-trotting menu, which runs from yellowfin tuna in a red pepper miso sauce to jidori chicken breast with saffron and prosciutto. 11616 Ventura Blvd., 818.505.3337, raphaelonventura.com $$$ Piccolo Venice Located just a few steps from the sand at Venice Beach, this quaint Italian restaurant (formerly just a shoebox) has doubled in size—and what a beautiful transformation. A fire roars in the fireplace, the new chandelier sparkles brilliantly and the building no longer feels like it’s crumbling. More importantly, the upscale Italian food is better than it’s ever been. The quail carbonara is fantastic, and the flourless chocolate “cake” is a revelation. 5 Dudley Ave., 310.314.3222, piccolovenice.com $$$ Jer-ne This restaurant at The Ritz-Carlton has always been one of the best spots on the water, with fabulous views of the marina from the patio. The Ritz-Carlton, 4375 Admiralty Way, 310.574.4333, ritzcarlton. com $$$ Bashan Rare among L.A. eateries, this is a neighborhood restaurant in the truest sense of the term, starring an up-and-coming chef who previously put in time at Providence and Michael’s, with a menu that ranges from burrata and bresaola to braised beef cheek and roasted duck breast. 3459 N. Verdugo Road, 818.541.1532, bashanrestaurant. com $$$ Zeke’s Smokehouse Headed by Joe Meinhart, this fabulous barbecue place features regional smokehouse favorites like Texas brisket and Memphis ribs. It may be pricier than most barbecue joints, but the ’cue is second to none. 2209 Honolulu Ave., 818.957.7045, zekessmokehouse. com $ Señor Fred If you allow your eyes to adjust to the darkness and you push your way past the throng of rowdy margarita drinkers, you’ll discover a very modern Mexican menu with a delicious lamb shank braised in red chile sauce. 13730 Ventura Blvd., 818.789.3200, senorfred. com $$ Jin Patisserie Kristy Choo runs one of the most interesting bake shops and candy stores in L.A., and the afternoon tea here is a fabulous blend of Asian and English traditions. Sit outside under the Sunny Spot The team who blessed us with A-Frame is behind this “cookshop,” where the mood and food are both vibrant, even for the Valley & North Brandywine With its nightly chalkboard menu presented to each table on an Firefly Bistro Chef Monique King and hubby Paul Rosenbluh command Hungry for more? Check out modernluxury.com/angeleno. | June 2012 | Angeleno | 127
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