ANGE July 2009 : Page 82

R e s t a u r a n t Special is the aff ordable wine, which is also available retail. 933 S. Brand Blvd., Glendale, 818.662.9463, palatefoodwine.com. TOP50 Chef GabrielMorales has created downtown’s coolest ceviche bar at Provecho, the city’s fi rst truly chicMexican restaurant. Sit facing the glass waterwall and order a sampler platter of nine raw or cured fi sh, but ask for an extra helping of themesquite-charred octopus with kumquat habanero salsa.T e tacos could compete with any of the famous taco trucks. 800 Wilshire Blvd., L.A., 213.489.1406, provechorestaurant.com. TOP 50T e next time you ponder brunch, imagine the crispy pork belly with tomato-bacon jam, toasted brioche and sunny-side-up eggs at Joe’s.T e elder statesman of Abbot Kinney feels as fresh as ever, hidden behind that same old unassuming storefront façade with sunlight streaming through the windows. 1023 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, 310.399.5811, joesrestaurant.com. TOP 50 Never mind the crazy samurai dungeon décor. Katana’s kitchen gets it right with succulent robata skewers like Kobe beef with black pepper sauce or shrimp with kaffi r lime and garlic butter. And the sushi’s darn good, too. 8439 W. Sunset Blvd.,West Hollywood, 323.650.8585, katanarobata.com. TOP 50 As far as old-fashioned, overtly masculine steakhouses go, Mastro’s still takes the crown. T e hand-cut ribeyes are easily the fattest and thickest in town. You’ll begin, of course, with a smoking tower of chilled lobster, crab legs and shrimp.T e wine list captures all the big names in California Cabernet. 246 N. Cañon Dr., Beverly Hills, 310.888.8782, mastrosrestaurants.com. continued on page 127... 82 | Angeleno | July 2009 ASTRY CHEF OF THE YEA Adrian Vasquez PROVIDENCE Yes, Adrian Vasquez won this award two years ago—and he’s winning it again because nobody is currentlymaking fi ner desserts.His latest stroke of genius? Canelé-fl avored ice cream shaped to look just like a canelé pastry, served with whipped, coff ee-infusedmascarpone disguised as ice cream. Lately he’s also been servingmacerated strawberrieswith basil ice cream, some sort of strawberry powder and tinymarshmallows that taste mildly of balsamic vinegar. Precede these with chefMichaelCimarusti’s salt-baked spot prawns, artfully served tableside by masterful maître d’ Donato Poto, and you have an utterly unforgettable occasion. 5955Melrose Ave., L.A., 323.460.4170, providencela.com. TOP 10 Top 5 Burgers 1. Westside Tavern: Freshly ground beef, Tillamook cheddar and arugula on an artisanal egg bun, served with homemade potato chips. 10850W. Pico Blvd., L.A., 310.470.1539, westsidetavernla.com. Classic with a twist at Westside Tavern. 2. Hotel Bel-Air: Decidedly old-fashioned—lettuce, onion, tomato, with excellent Angus beef. Served on a house-made potato brioche bun. Best enjoyed poolside. 701 Stone Canyon Rd., Bel Air, 310.472.5234, hotelbelair.com. 3. 3 Square Café: Taller than it is wide, with Swiss cheese, caramelized onions, sweet mustard and that awesome pretzel bun. 1121 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, 310.399.6504, rockenwagner.com. 4. Josie: Buff alo sirloin with Gruyère, caramelized onions and mushrooms, plus truffl e fries. 2424 Pico Blvd., SantaMonica, 310.581.9888, josierestaurant.com. 5. Umami Burger: T e SoCal, with dried tomatoes and house- processed cheese.Onion rings extra. 850 S. La Brea Ave., L.A., 323.931.3000, umamiburger.com. VAN UARD AWAR Capo An Ibérico ham, black hoof still intact, rests on a shelf near the bar. A chef stands at the corner fi replace, gently turning a steak on a makeshift wood-burning grill. A server rushes through the dining room with a warm plate of corn ravioli, trailing the scent of freshly shaven black truffl es in her wake. For 10 years, Bruce Marder’s full- sensory Italian steakhouse has been one of the toughest reservations near the beach—and it doesn’t even have a view. Very little has changed through the years. It’s just grown better andmore polished with age. 1810Ocean Ave., SantaMonica, 310.394.5550, caporestaurant.com. TOP 25 LIFETIME ACHIEVEMENT The timeless grace of Bruce Marder’s 10-year-old Capo in Santa Monica. CAPO PHOTO BY EDUARD DUARTE

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