RVSD January/February 2015 : Page 98
FOOD & DRINK BEST OF THE CITY OH, BROTHeR, WHeRe aRT THOu? shaun Gethin, left, of Bijou French Bistro, is a William Bradley disciple in both appearance and cuisine. Brother Jason Gethin, right, was famed for his game dishes at union Kitchen & Tap in encinitas before opening Table no. 10 in the east Village, where the kitchen features a custom-built smoker. shell shock 1,563. That’s the number of Ironside Select oysters shucked and sold within the first six hours they were on the menu at Little Italy’s Ironside Fish & Oyster (ironsidefishandoyster.com). Add another feather to the cap of chef and co-owner Jason McLeod: With this past October’s launch of the signature oyster (grown exclusively for the resto in Puget Sound by the Minterbrook Oyster Company), the Michelin-starred chef has put an oceanic twist on farm-to-table. What a pearl. RaW DeaL according to chef Jason mcLeod, ironside select oysters ($3 each) feature a mild, sweet flavor profile with a hint of brine. Table for Two “Divergent” wasn’t just the name of a hit movie in 2014. It readers’ ChoiCe: FaVoriTe resTauraNT You came; you ate; you loved; and then we asked: What’s your favorite San Diego dining destination? 1. romesCo meXiTerraNeaN bisTro javier plascencia (see our top five) has said that his goal is “to show the world that baja cuisine doesn’t only consist of street tacos, rice and beans.” at this bonita fave, look for dishes like paella, succulent octopus and chile en nogada . 4346 Bonita Road, 619.475.8627, romescomexmed.com 2. The PaTio oN GoldFiNCh cheese and... tequila? not a common pairing, but then, there’s nothing common about this new mission hills offering, which features stunning indoor-outdoor design and california comfort food, plus a glass cheese cave and an agave-focused spirits program. 4020 Goldfinch St., 696.501.5090, thepatioongoldfinch.com 3. CaFe 21 look for a line heading out the door and down fifth avenue and you’ve found chef leyla javadov’s hit eatery, serving dishes like apricot-braised lamb shanks and kabobs influenced by her azerbaijan roots. 802 Fifth Ave., 619.795.0721, cafe-21.com 4. PuesTo in 2014, the original la jolla street-taco joint spawned a high-design outpost downtown at the headquarters. it’s a hotter scene than cabo on a summer saturday night, with en fuego cocktails and, yes, ridiculously good tacos, plus dishes like mole and barbacoa. 789 W. Harbor Drive, 619.233.8880, eatpuesto.com 5. searsuCker We’re almost nostalgic for the original Gaslamp offering, now a rapidly expanding brand with outlets in las Vegas and austin, texas. searsucker del mar is also a hit, thanks to the new american menu and, of course, the celebrated peter rabbit cocktail. 611 Fifth Ave., 619.233.7327; 12995 El Camino Real, 858.369.5700, searsucker.com nexT mex Gambas al ajillo at Romesco mexiterranean Bistro in Bonita 98 rivier a jan/feb 2015 Gutter ironside fish & oyster photoGraphy by andrea bricco; romesco photoGraphy by GustaVo mayoral was also the best word to describe the culinary paths of the Gethin brothers, S.D. chefs who each opened a hit resto in the last year. For Shaun Gethin , the younger of the two St. Louis-born siblings, it was La Jolla’s Bijou French Bistro (bijoufrenchbistro.com), boasting the type of swank but homey atmosphere you’d find in, say, Paris’s tony 7th Arrondissement, and a menu of simple bistro classics (oeufs mayonnaise, coq au vin, cassoulet) interpreted with the finesse you’d expect from chef William Bradley’s longtime Addison sous (Bijou, like Addison, is also owned by Doug Manchester). Meanwhile, in the East Village, Jason Gethin ’s Table No. 10 (tablenumber10.com) wouldn’t look out of place on the Lower East Side. But its starkly minimalist interior belies the complexity of Jason’s top-notch cooking, a carnivore’s dream with dishes on the chef and co-owner’s menu like lazy ravioli with braised suckling pig, or octopus with Portuguese sausage and sorrel chimichurri. Sibling rivalry? Heck no. Both eateries are our favorites.