ANGE January 2012 : Page 108
food drink | Guide five questioNs to equinox Beverly hills, with a separate entrance on Wilshire, oliver serves an eclectic, international menu and a full bar, along with a well-edited selection of wines. 9601 Wilshire Blvd., 310.888.8160, olivercafe. com $ itself remains a quiet refuge with a super-sexy and very private patio. L’Ermitage, 9291 Burton Way, 310.278.3344, lermitagebh.com $$$$ The Roof Garden the poolside café and bar on the rooftop of the Peninsula hotel is one of Beverly hills’ best-kept secrets, and we can’t think of any place we’d rather be on our day off than here eating citrus-marinated kampachi in the sunshine. Come nightfall, you’ll find us in front of the fire pit with a perfect martini in hand. 9882 S. Santa Monica Blvd., 310.975.2855, peninsula. com/beverly _hills $$$ Polo Lounge rising-star chef alex Chen replaced his mentor robert allen at this landmark restaurant inside the Beverly hills hotel. the ahi tuna tartare with spiced avocado and mango, and the grilled coconut curried chicken satays with Malaysian peanut sauce are sublime. fyi, Chen has been chosen to represent Canada in the prestigious Bocuse d’or (aka culinary olympics) in 2013. The Beverly Hills Hotel, 9641 Sunset Blvd., 310.887.2777, thebeverlyhillshotel. com $$$ Scarpetta BEST SERVICE AT A NEW RESTAURANT Porta Via it used to be if you blinked, you would miss this tiny spot. But after annexing the space next door, it’s now almost noticeable (still quite small). the menu, which is only vaguely italian, includes great big salads, a burger and the ever-popular lasagna, which regulars have been known to serve at their own dinner parties. 424 N. Cañon Drive, 310.274.6534, portaviabh. com $ Pork aND kNiFe Chef Chris Cosentino comes to L.a. Eating Hoof to Mouth Chris Cosentino has never met an animal part he didn’t like. The San Francisco chef made a name for himself with his offal preparations (his Twitter handle is @offalchris) at Incanto, and with charcuterie at Boccalone. Now he’s making his L.A. debut inside Adam Fleischman’s Umamicatessen, at PIGG, a pork-centric restaurant near the Orpheum Theatre. –Lesley Balla PIGG. The name pretty much says it all, but what can we expect? Well, for starters, lots of to L.A. Jitlada has an amazing Red Medicine BEST NEW CHEF scott Conant’s nationally renowned italian dining den lands in the Montage Beverly hills with a menu of scarpetta classics augmented by new dishes inspired by local produce. But the most memorable feature of the restaurant is its spectacular service. this is a place where you’re greeted warmly when you walk in, where servers who care guide you with instinct and skill, where napkins are folded neatly upon your return, and none of it seems rehearsed or rushed. 225 N. Canon Drive, 310.860.7970, montagebeverlyhills.com $$$ South Beverly Grill the Bev hills locale from the folks behind Bandera includes a lot of familiar territory (a wicked burger, mesquite-grilled lamb sirloin, campfire ribs) but there’s also the henri ham and roasted pork sandwich served at the bar. 122 S. Beverly Drive, 310.550.0242, hillstone.com $$ pork. I’ll be doing different pig ear dishes, french fries fried in lard, terrine sandwiches with mustard and cornichon, and a “hoof-and-mouth terrine” with pickled carrots. Oh, and did I say lots of ham? menu with so much depth and honesty in the cooking. It’s the best Thai food I have ever had, period. I always eat at Umami Burger when I’m in town—that’s how Adam and I met—for the pastrami burger. You’re known for meats, but you also have a way with produce. Favorite seasonal ingredient? I Pork belly has been done to death. What’s the hot new meat for 2012? I don’t think pork belly love all radishes. I also like bitter vegetables like rapini, chicories and dandelion greens because they add freshness to any meal, especially meat-heavy feasts. will ever go away because it is so damn tasty. I think we’ll see more attention paid to the lost meat cuts, with more focus on the butchering techniques that get the most out of the animal. Jordan kahn, once a rising-star pastry chef at the since-shuttered XiV, combines modern technique with southeast asian flavors to deliver dishes—like sugar cane-cured trout with a savory burnt chile streusel, dotted with fresh wild herbs and edible flowers—that are as spectacular to look at as they are to taste. you’ll probably spot a few local chefs at the bar sipping a perfectly unique cocktail and devouring the country pâté banh mi well into the night. 8400 Wilshire Blvd., 323.651.5500, redmedicinela.com $$$ Spago Wolfgang Puck’s flagship is still the most important restaurant in town. Chefs lee hefter and tetsu yahagi do most of the cooking these days (sublime California cuisine), but you can still sample Puck’s famous pizzas, pastas and austrian classics. 176 N. Cañon Drive, 310.385.0880, wolfgangpuck. com $$$ The Restaurant at L’Ermitage the l’ermitage hotel has just transitioned from the singapore-based raffles brand to our very own l.a.-based Viceroy Group. along with this change comes new chef Joseph elevado, formerly of nobu in las Vegas, dishing up modern american fare. the restaurant Trader Vic’s Lounge sure, it may lack the kitschy charm of its tiki-themed predecessor, but this toned-down transplant still satisfies with its cheeky mai tais, scorpion bowls, and pupu Name some of the places where you like to dine when you come Could there be a Cosentino-only place in the works here? Yes, for sure, if I find the right space. 108 | Angeleno | January 2012
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